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CALL: 1.800.338.6071 FAX: 831.338.9111 EMAIL: |
WINE
CLUB NEWS Spring
2002
Wine
Club tasting selections are: 2000
AHLGREN Semillon, Livermore
Valley 1999
AHLGREN Merlot, Santa
Cruz Mountains, Bates'
Ranch 1999
AHLGREN Cabernet Franc Santa
Cruz Mountains, Bates'
Ranch
____________________________ 2000 AHLGREN Semillon, Livermore
Valley We
have been buying Semillon grapes from the Livermore Valley since 1981, and
without exception, every vintage has produced a very special and distinctive
wine. We
became interested in Semillon in 1979 when we were offered
grapes from the old Novitiate Vineyard above Los Gatos. Although Semillon
is considered one of the five noble grapes in France along with Sauvignon Blanc,
Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot noir and Chardonnay, it had little respect in
California, and except for Concannon, Wente and Charles Krug, it was mostly used
in generic white wines. Semillon
is a white Bordeaux variety and the base for the famous Sauternes, blended with
Sauvignon Blanc. In Sauternes, the grapes are harvested after they are infected
with borytis, the so-called Nobel
Rot, botrytis cinerea, which develops, naturally, the incredible, velvety sweet honey-like
character of those wines. When
we started with this grape, having no experience with Semillon, we stuck to our
traditional ways with white wine learned from working with Chardonnay: crushing
without stemming, pressing without skin soak, and fermenting in the barrels at
cellar temperatures. And, rather than making a sweet wine, we followed the
tradition of the dry white Bordeaux, fermenting the wine to dryness. In
1981 the Santa Cruz Mountain Semillon crop failed. An attack of cutworms left
the vines defoliated. Someone suggested Livermore Valley as an alternative
source. The moderate climate, deep gravel and terrific drainage of the Livermore
Valley make it a great place to grow grapes. This Semillon, as well as our
Livermore Zinfandels, offer ample evidence of the quality of the appellation. We
let the grapes hang, gaining a bit of additional ripeness, hoping for that touch
of botrytis that can come toward the end of ripening when morning fogs are
followed by warm days. Although the botrytis does not reach the degree and
intensity of that in good years in France, even a touch, perhaps 10-15%,
characteristic of the AHLGREN Semillon, gives the wines a richness in the mouth
and a touch of honey in the bouquet. That justifies the risk of the wait and the
resulting higher alcohols for richer bouquet and flavors. We
like French oak for the Chardonnay, but learned, to our surprise, that we prefer
Semillon in American oak. (We had
to chuckle at a wine review featuring a panel of experts that characterized our
Semillon as definitely having French oak flavor). About the oak, we must say
that for whites we try to keep a good percentage of neutral barrels, which are
carefully pampered older barrels, to protect against extraction of excessive oak
flavors that could result from too much new oak in the white wines. We
try to protect the Semillon from going through malo-lactic fermentation, a
bacterial fermentation often called "secondary fermentation,"
occurring toward the end of the yeast fermentation. However, in 1999, the
Semillon went through a spontaneous malo-lactic fermentation. We thought it
might be ruined, or at least greatly changed, but we were pleased to discover
that we really could not tell the difference. Sometimes, in winemaking, one
simply has to shrug and say something inscrutable like "Go figure!" 2000
was a very fine vintage for the Semillon. The wine is fragrant and aromatic with
hints of pear and figs in the bouquet -- classic qualities. The flavors are rich
and complex, full-bodied, and mouth filling. The finish is long, and the wine is
dry. It is great with fish, shellfish dishes, including
sushi, and makes a surprising match with thinly sliced fuyu persimmon and
almonds. 320
cases produced.
$16.50 per bottle. Club
Member price per bottle-10%
$14.85 Club
Member 12 bottle price - 15%
$14.03
___________________________________________________ 1999 AHLGREN Merlot,
Santa Cruz Mountains Bates'
Ranch We have described our relationship
with the Bates' Ranch many times. It began when we started making the Cabernet
during our first vintage, 1976. The Merlot was planted sometime later, as was
the Cabernet Franc, so our history with these grapes dates to 1991.
The Merlot is a very low production grape at
Bates', and we get only about a ton of the grapes, if that. (We pay a king's
ransom for these and the other Bates' grapes.)
None of that mediocre stuff the grape produces in many places. The
combined effect of the Santa Cruz Mountains location plus low production result
in an outstanding Merlot.
1999 was an exceptional vintage, and this
Merlot is big and substantial, deserving to be set aside for some months or
years, depending on how patient you are. The blend is 75% Merlot with 25%
Cabernet Sauvignon, all Bates' Ranch. The dusty, aromatic, fruity bouquet has
hints of chocolate. The wine is complex, supple, and well balanced, with lush
Merlot fruit character. Unfined and unfiltered. Only 108 Cases produced, and
Wine Club Members are first in line for this wine, so if you wish to order more,
please do so before we begin to offer it to lesser mortals.
$26.00
per bottle. Club
Member price per bottle - 10%
$23.40 per bottle. Club
Member 12 bottle price -
15%
$22.10 per bottle ___________________________________________________ 1999
AHLGREN Cabernet Franc Santa Cruz Mountains Bates'
Ranch
Cabernet Franc from this
vineyard has surprising depth and body. The blend with 25% Cabernet Sauvignon,
also from Bates' Ranch enhances the structure without compromising the soft
fruit of the Cab Franc.
The 1999 has an aromatic, dusty, berry-fruit
bouquet and bright varietal fruit flavors with fine fruit/tannin balance. It is
mouth-filling, elegant and complex. Unfined and unfiltered. Only 115 cases
produced.
$26.00
per bottle.
Club
Member price per bottle - 10%
$23.40 per bottle. Club
Member 12 bottle price -
15%
$22.10 per bottle
ADDITIONAL
WINES AVAILABLE:
Some in very
limited quantities. Club Member discounts apply to the following retail prices,
(See accompanying order sheet.) 1998 AHLGREN Chardonnay,
Ventana Vnyd. $18.00 per bottle
SPECIAL DISCOUNT 15% PER BOTTLE,=
$15.30
20% PER 12 BOTTLES =
$14.40 Regular
Wine Club discounts apply to the wines below: 1999
AHLGREN Chardonnay, Ventana
$18.50
1998
AHLGREN Tre Vini Rossi™,
Santa Cruz Mountains $15.00 1999
AHLGREN Syrah, Paso Robles,
$20.00 1999
AHLGREN Syrah, Monterey, Ventana,
$24.00 1998
AHLGREN Cab. Sauv. , Harvest Moon
$27.50 1998
AHLGREN Cab. Sauv. Bates' Ranch
$27.50 JUST
RELEASED: AHLGREN 2000 ZINFANDEL, Livermore
Valley The
1999 Livermore Zinfandel simply flew out of here as soon as it was discovered.
The 2000 is of at least equal quality. Aromatic, rich, intense, huge, classic
Zin bouquet. Full-bodied, mouth filling, well balanced, long finish. Complex.
$22 per bottle. Wine club discounts apply. See order sheet. COMING
SOON: AHLGREN Pinot noir!
In 2000, Beth was able to
obtain enough Santa Cruz Mountains Pinot noir to make a single barrel of wine,
which we are just preparing to bottle. In
2001, pursuing the Pinot noir theme, we purchased two tons from Doug Meador of
Ventana Vineyards, Monterey. The results are very promising, and we will make
more of this wine in 2002. Very
soon, our precious, difficult acre of one and two year old grapevine rootstock
will be budded to three clones of Dijon Pinot noir by the legendary master
budder from Napa, Salvadore Preciado. Wish us balmy weather without late killing
frost. Wish us divine protection from sharpshooters and their deadly infection,
Pierce's Disease, and pray that the gophers extend the gift of mercy. . LIBRARY WINE:
We are offering some fine older wines for sale 1993 AHLGREN Cab. Sauv. Bates'
Reserve (limit 3 bottles) $35.00 1997
AHLGREN Cab. Sauv. Bates' Reserve (limit 6 bottles) $50.00 -----
PLUS ------ ANNOUNCING:
THE FIRST AHLGREN CELLAR SALE OF LIBRARY WINES Enjoy
our cellar cum Wine Shop. Peruse the collection of fine wines saved and cellared
by the Ahlgrens. Taste and choose. Saturday
and Sunday, July 27 and 28, 2002, 12 - 4. We
will be tasting older Chardonnays and Semillons, some in magnums. Older Zins and
Cabs, including the great '85 and '87 Bates. We will also preview our first
Pinot noirs, Santa Cruz and Ventana. Bargains
in Wine Barrel Planters and Ahlgren T Shirts Please
call or email to reserve your place. Space is limited. Wine Club
Members $10, Guests $20. (Reservations
not refundable.) CHANGES
IN THE AHLGREN WEB WINESHOP: www.ahlgrenvineyard.com
We have changed from the secure
online store due to sharply increased costs. As a Wine Club Member, your credit
card information is on file here already, so you can simply email us your
orders. No need to worry about online security. Just let us know what you want
shipped. We will run the charge from the credit card number on file here, and
the wine will be on its way. Or,
to fax an order, you can download the order form from the web site, fill it in,
and fax it on to us. We
ship promptly at the beginning of each week, so wines arrive before the weekend.
Tell
a friend! They can download the Wine Club application from the web page, or they
can give us a call. To contact us directly: Long
distance; 1-800-338-6071; fax 1-831-338-9111. Local
phone:831-338-6071, email ahlgren@ahlgrenvineyard.com. IMPORTANT
NOTICES WORTH REPEATING:
Why do we keep repeating? Because there are always new members who have not yet
been assailed by these messages. #1)
TO AIR OR NOT TO AIR? WE SAY,
"LET IT BREATHE!" UNLESS IT'S
ZINFANDEL, in
which case, proceed directly to the glass and enjoy. The perfect red wine when
in the mood for instant gratification.
We
have a history of being Our
discovery is that those who claim that airing and decanting improve wines of
substance are absolutely correct. Give it a try, tasting before you decant, and
then after decanting. The wines come forward, round out, and taste better and
better as you progress through the glass and the bottle. The other part of
presentation is making certain that the wines are "room temperature",
about 60-65°. Temperature makes a huge difference. Too cold, and the wine
withholds its virtues. Even
Chardonnay and Semillon, chilled before serving, benefit as they air in the
glass and warm a bit #2)
INCONVENIENT, ADULT SIGNATURE REQUIRED LABELS ON WINE SHIPMENTS: From time to time, we
are asked to eliminate the "Adult Signature Required" stickers on wine
shipments. Unfortunately, we are required by law, and by our contract with the
shippers, to affix the stickers. Sorry for the inconvenience, but we are
forbidden to ship without the stickers. ABOUT
THOSE LITTLE CRYSTALS: Sometimes,
when a white wine has been stored at low temperatures, such as in a
refrigerator, potassium bitartrate crystals will form. To avoid this happening
in the bottle, wineries more industrialized than Ahlgren, chill their wines in
refrigerated tanks at around 23° for about three weeks. This causes the
tartrate crystals to drop out before the wine is bottled. These tartrates are a
byproduct of this sort of winemaking and provide a source of cream of tarter for
the baking industry. At
Ahlgren, some tartrates fall out in the barrel at the cool temperatures of the
winery. We spare the wine the
trauma of sitting at below freezing temperatures to force the rest of the
tartrates to drop. We know that the crystals are harmless and are evidence that
the wine has not been forced to undergo unnecessary treatment that adds nothing
to the quality and likely detracts. We
recommend that you do not store Ahlgren white wines in the fridge, but that you
chill them for half an hour or so before serving, if you like them a bit cooler
than the temperature at which you regularly store them. If you do find tartrate
crystals, fear not. They are harmless. ADVENTURES
AT AHLGREN VINEYARD We
had snow twice this winter, and it was enough to keep us snowbound for a few
hours until it melted off of the driveway. Very beautiful and quiet. At
this writing, it is the sixth day of spring. We saw a good-looking coyote
crossing the driveway ahead of us, moving uphill, as we drove toward the winery
this afternoon. There
is a pause between the migrating birds that fly through in the late fall and the
burst of activity that comes after. We have seen the Black Phoebes, but have not
crawled out on the roof to see if they have returned to their traditional
nesting place on the bracket supporting the chimney of Val's beloved wood
burning cook stove. We
also see many Oregon juncos, quail, stellar jays, brown towhees, acorn
woodpeckers, soaring vultures, red tailed hawks, and resident hummingbirds, and
the migrants are on their way. We are hearing great horned owls and red
shouldered hawks. A
couple of our helpers from Camp Joy, a non-profit, educational organic market
garden in Boulder Creek on Camp Joy Road, spotted two red shouldered hawks in
the vineyard. One was on the ground, and one was on a fence post. Definitely a
sign of hunting, of gophers, we hope. April
4, 2002, Bloom time: wild iris, both the little California Blue-eyed Grass, and
the larger, creamy white Douglas' or Mountain Iris are in bloom; garden
daffodils too; a cloud of light pink quince blooms cover their tree, the redbud
and the little fruit trees are all in bloom, and a gopher has moved in,
burrowing below Val's flourishing carrot patch. The chase is on. ABOUT
ACORNS
Last year, we sent acorns to Wine Club Members as our holiday greeting.
Since then we have heard from some of you wanting more acorns.. We cannot send
them for now. The sad news is, that since we sent those acorns from our huge,
healthy California Live Oak, quarantine has been enacted against exporting oak
products from this area due to an infection that has been killing Tan Oaks and
Live Oaks in Coastal areas. Rest assured: our tree stands healthy. We are
certain that the acorns we sent you were uncontaminated, even though they may
have hatched an acorn moth worm. Val carefully hand selected each acorn, but
later discovered that the moth lays her eggs on the blossom of the oak, before
the acorn forms. When the acorn grows, the grub within has all it needs to,
munch and grow, finally boring its way to freedom and its next great adventure. LOOKING
FOR NEW NEIGHBORS:
The 14 acre Ahlgren Parcel, between our
little Pinot noir vineyard and the historic Saratoga Toll Road is offered for
sale. See enclosure.
END
NOTE: Remembering
a great Greyhound: To Willy's Friends,
Today, April 4, 2002, at about 1:30, after enjoying a late lunch of gourmet
veggie pizza, thin crust, light on the cheese, our Dear Willy died, suffering
from bone cancer, at the age of nearly 14 years.
He had worked as a winery greeter at Ahlgren
Vineyard for ten years, earning a reputation for kindness to all, and did his
patient best to train his standard poodle, Art, to follow in his footsteps.
He was a beautiful, big racer who started
his professional life at the tracks in Phoenix. There he had the intelligence
and good sense to refuse to return to the starting gate after being bumped on
the hindquarters when the door of a gate dropped on him before he could
completely enter.
Although not injured, he refused to play the game any longer, and would
not race. He was then retired and, happily, ended up at Ahlgren Vineyard.
In honor of his life here on this mountain,
and in memory of the many mornings he spent running there with the power and
abandon with which this dog celebrated his sweet life, the vineyard block known
for many years as Moondance, has been renamed "Greyhound Run
Vineyard."
We anticipate that the Pinot noir that will
grow here will exhibit qualities equal to his: grace, verve, beautiful
conformation, color, noble elegance and fine structure. With
fond memories and great thanks to Willie for his kind and loving presence during
our years together, The
Ahlgrens That's
all for now.
SALUD! CHEERS! À VOTRE SANTÈ! Beth, Dexter & Val Ahlgren
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